This striking ring features at its heart a velvety ultramarine blue synthetic sapphire, surrounded by twinkling rose cut diamonds. Synthetic sapphires - a cutting edge innovation that finally reached commercial jewelry in the 1910s after decades of research and experimentation - were widely used throughout art deco designs, prized for their newness (technophilia was all the rage), for their perfection and clarity, and for their dazzling colour saturation. Most especially beloved when their strengths could be showcased best, as in extra-large stones like this one or in perfectly matched and calibrated accents, synthetics were considered by many to be the way of the future. Synthetic gemstones, while manufactured under tightly controlled conditions in early labs and later factories, have the same chemical makeup as their natural counterparts and display very similar visual and physical properties. While the pendulum has swung back in favor of natural sapphires for their rarity, we love to see the period-specific use of the synthetics in art deco designs.

Good vintage condition, wear to stones and thinning to band. c1920.

Details:

• 18k yellow gold and platinum, unstamped but tested
• Size 8 3/4-9 (slightly out of round) and can be resized within two sizes down but do not recommend sizing up
• One elongated cushion synthetic sapphire, 12 flat rose cut diamonds 
• Face of ring measures 14.6mm wide, 8.3mm across, with a 4.1mm rise; back of band measures 1.1mm wide and 0.8mm thick

• 2.7g